Rehber
Interlining selection is a technical process(Fabric + process + target handle = correct product)
Bu sayfa; kağıt, dokuma, örme ve kıl tela farklarını, fusible uygulama yaklaşımını ve üretimde karşılaşılan temel sorunların teknik çözümlerini bir araya getirir.
Tela nedir?basic definition
Tela (interlining / interfacing); kumaşın içinde görünmeyen ama formu belirleyen katmandır. Yaka, manşet, pat, cep kapağı, kemer, ceket ön gibi bölgelerde destek, stabilite وshape retention provides support.
Interlining selection cannot be reduced to a single parameter:fabric structure, stretch direction, wash/finish, pres tipi and the targeted handle must be considered together.
Golden rule: Üretimden önce mutlaka numune denemesi yapın.
Aynı tela, farklı pres/ısı/soğutma ile bambaşka sonuç verir.
Interlining typescomparison
| Type | When to use? | Pros | Watch out |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nonwoven | Light support, shirting, lining, pocket | Cost-effective, wide width options | Shine/mark risk, post-wash behavior |
| Dokuma (Woven) | Collar/cuff/waistband, stable shape | Compatible with woven fabrics, more controlled shape | Direction (weft/warp) and shrinkage control |
| Knit | Knit fabrics (if elasticity must be preserved) | Allows elasticity, more natural movement | Excessive pressure can “kill” the fabric |
| Hair / Canvas | Jacket front, classic tailoring, roll | Provides shape and “roll”, premium structure | Application technique is critical (direction, area, stitching) |
| Texfix (double-sided) | Applique, temporary fixing, layer joining | Practical fixation, clean workmanship | Mark/stiffness and wash durability |
Interlining selectorpre-assessment
Complete selections; the system will generateinterlining type + gsm range and the technical rationale.
A recommendation will appear here after you complete the selection.
The recommendation is preliminary. Sample and technical document validation is recommended for final decision.
Fusible applicationprocess control
Initial checklist
- Pre-test: Test fabric + interlining + press combination on a small sample.
- Heat / time / pressure: Triple balance. Do not increase the others blindly when one is increased.
- Cooling: Cool the panel on a flat surface after bonding; early movement may cause bubbling.
- Moisture / steam: Steam harms some fabrics and helps others. Sampling is mandatory.
- Direction: In woven interlining, weft/warp; in knit interlining, stretch direction is critical.
Reference process ranges
Frequently encountered ranges in technical datasheets:~127–138°C / 12–18 sn / 2–4 bar (knit group) and~143–166°C / 15–20 sn (dokuma grubu).
Not: Pres plakası sıcaklığı ile gerçek “fuseline” sıcaklığı farklı olabilir.
Bu nedenle numune ve gerekirse termopaper ölçümü ile doğrulama yapılmalıdır.
Common issues and solution stepsdiagnosis
- Cause: low heat/time, insufficient pressure, insufficient cooling, fabric finish, adhesive mismatch.
- Solution: adjust target values gradually; extend cooling; if needed try another adhesive type.
- Cause: excessive heat/pressure, thin fabric, wrong adhesive dot density, wrong surface.
- Solution: reduce heat, use press cloth, try thinner interlining or different dot structure.
- Cause: different shrinkage behavior of fabric and interlining; direction error; movement after process.
- Solution: check direction in woven interlining; consider pre-treatment/stabilization; run sample wash.
- Cause: low fuseline temperature, insufficient time, silicone/coating on fabric, wrong adhesive type.
- Solution: measure fuseline temperature; increase time; request fabric finish info; choose proper adhesive (PA/PE/PES).
Glossaryterms
- GSM (g/m²): Weight of 1 m² interlining in grams.
- En: Roll width of interlining (cm).
- Top / rulo: Roll length of interlining (m).
- Dot (nokta) coating: Adhesive distributed in dot form (important for elasticity and breathability).
- Fuseline temperature: Actual temperature of the bonding line between fabric and interlining.
- PA / PE / PES: Polyamide / Polyethylene / Polyester based adhesive types.
- Waste: Loss ratio from cutting/layout (typically between 5% and 15%).
Technical notessummary
- Woven fabric + woven interlining often gives a more stable result.
- On knit fabrics, knit interlining is advantageous for preserving elasticity.
- Hair canvas: premium structure; if used in the wrong area it may feel cardboard-like.
- Pre-production sample validation is the core step for quality consistency.
Technical assessment time shortens when press settings, fabric finish details, and interlining code are shared together.
Next stepflow